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Â“Casings were found along with blood, hair, and foot prints all the way to this rebar.Â”Was the casings, blood, hair and foot prints on the inside of outside of the high fence? Was a DNA test done on the blood that was found and compared to the money buckÂ’s blood? Also, were Bo-BoÂ’s fingerprints on the casings and the footprints the same size and matched Bo-boÂ’s boots? Is there any chance that the money buck couldÂ’ve gotten out of the high fenced area while he was alive (not dragged under the fence)?This case is not as rock solid as you make it sound - unless Bo-bo confesses itÂ’ll be tough to convict him. WhoÂ’s to say that Bo-Bo removed the rebar, or that it was it Bo-boÂ’s shell casings and footprints inside the fence? Maybe this buck did get out all by itself and Bo-bo was lucky enough to be in the woods that day. I donÂ’t know. I can tell you this - if I saw that deer on my lease I wouldnÂ’t hesitate a second to harvest it (by legal means of course). So if thereÂ’s a small chance that this buck got out the high fenced area by itself then I congratulate Bo-bo. If he did trespassed to kill this animal then heÂ’s a low life POS.Last questionÂ….why hasnÂ’t Bo-bo been arrested yet?
I owned a 1999 Alweld Semi-V 15x48 with a 3cyl 40hp Merc. She topped out at 33mph. I think Yammy's are a little hotter of an engine so you may get 30mph with the bigger boat. I wouldn't count on getting 39mph - unless you add alcohol to your gas, drill your exhaust and have a 30mph tail wind! I'd think a 60 -75hp tiller would be ideal for that size boat.
ItÂ’s an obedience issue. The Â“hereÂ” command doesnÂ’t mean letÂ’s play keep away and come to me when you want. It means Â“get here now!Â” No exceptionsÂ…..even if the dog has a dummy or bird in his mouth. IMO Â“hereÂ” is the most important command you can teach your dog. To fix the problem you need to put him on a check cord and work on Â“hereÂ” along with other obedience commands. It also sounds like this may be a young dog and 1st time trainer????? The most common mistake made by young trainers is to moving too fast. IÂ’m sure you want your dog to run out there and pick up a bird and deliver it to hand perfectly but itÂ’s like building a house and the most important thing is the foundation. Obedience is the foundation for any good retriever. IÂ’m not saying donÂ’t throw bumpers for your dog but I am saying that Â“building that foundationÂ” will make your job a whole lot easier.ThereÂ’s a lot to training a good retriever so picking up a training book or DVD is essential. IÂ’m partial to the Fowl Dawgs DVD and 10 Minute Retriever book. Check out www.coonriverkennels.comHope this helps. Good luck
http://maps.live.comYou can zoom in closer than with google maps. Also has a neat bird's eye view but only in the city.
I'm not a mud motor expert but I have experience with Prodrive and Gatortail. I have to agree with FFT (but in a different order). I'd go with the 35hp Gatortail 1st followed close by Prodrive 32 or 36hp. You can't go wrong with either one. Both have good power. The GT was more tricked out with reverse and power trim. The PD had a handwheel trim. Powertrim is the way to go. Both ran about 28mph.
I'm sure Mudbuddy makes a decent motor too but I'd buy from the Louisiana boys and wouldn't go with Mudbuddy - especially a 23 on a 17' boat! I don't have experience with Go-Devil surface drives but I have heard that there isn't a neutral. That's about all my mud motor knowledge...
....but I beleive that a good bit of the ducks have shifted from the Mississippi Flyway to the Central Flyway. If you hunt Nebraska, Missouri, Kansas or Oklahoma you'll probably shoot more ducks than hunting in the Mississippi Flyway! Louisiana and Arkansas have had cr@ppy duck seasons the last couple of years. I like to think that waterfowl aren't stupid and they move to where they are less likely to get shot at and there are far less hunting pressure in the Central Flyway. I also agree with what dogface said. I believe that we have a ton of ducks here early in the season but after opening morning they raft up offshore by the thousands. I think that you see more ducks in early Feb. because they start to move after the shooting stops.
Several years back I was in the same boat as you. The problem isn't the nutria rats it's that your dog comes to you when HE wants. Sure he may pick up ducks but if you sometimes chase him around the marsh then he's not very well trained. He should come to you everytime he's called.Before you put the e-collar on him you need to back up and revisit basic obidience. Like someone said put a check cord on him and start over with come/here. You'll need to be consistant on his commands. I'm not saying you need to beat the crap out of him when he doesn't come to you but you need to make him come to you everytime (that's why you use the lead). After the dog is coming to you on lead, look for distractions to try to trick him into not coming to you. Another dog is a great distraction....if you can get a nutria rat that would be better! When you trick him in not coming to you, give him a "Here" and tug on the lead and make him come to you. Before long he won't even think about not coming to you when he's called. Next I would work on the whistle sit and whistle here commands. One tweet = sit, three tweets = here. Again, this doesn't take long for the dog to pick up. After the dog has the whistle sit/here commands down then I would move to collar conditioning. Not before that. The electronic collar is a great tool but if the dog isn't sure what it's getting corrected for then the collar will do more harm than good. If you don't have a collar then I would recommend that you start with the Tri-tronics G3 Sport Basic. It's a great collar and only cost about $200 plus it comes with a good instructional video by J. Paul Jackson. I also suggest that you buy Fowl Dawgs I DVD or Waterdogs is a good start. You're problem isn't a hard fix, you'll just need to put a little time into the dog. You have all summer to work on it so next season he'll impress your huntin' buddies. Good luck!
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